Added: Eri Eichler - Date: 15.11.2021 17:47 - Views: 34145 - Clicks: 9768
From Man Ray to Louise Bourgeois, an astonishing range of artists have used tights and stockings to turbocharge their work. We go behind the scenes at Gossamer, a celebration of hosiery.
A n art exhibition about tights? In Margate? It sounds very end-of-the-pier, all saucy postcards and mother-in-law jokes. There is something a bit icky about hosiery in the day-to-day. While Gossamer is a witty, knowing exhibition, it approaches hosiery with barely a smirk, for tights and stockings have actually been used by an astonishing range of artists, from Man Ray and Pantyhose fetishists Bourgeois to Sarah Lucas and Senga Nengudi.
Nylons do, after all, work brilliantly in sculpture — stretching, masking, distending and accommodating almost anything stuffed into them. The idea for Gossamer was sparked by a chair made by superstar Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama that appeared to be made of stuffed stockings.
Bedeaux found herself conducting a roll-call of artworks she had encountered using tights and stockings: it went on and on. Ulay was less interested in the erotic, sexual connotations of feminine dress than in a personal exploration of gender.
Japanese photographer Daido Moriyama, meanwhile, approaches tights as a voyeur. His images of stark fishnet patterning taut across pale flesh are so up-close that the curving contours of the human body feel architectural in scale. Borland started working on Bunny in with a then unknown pantyhose fetishists actress called Gwendoline Christie.
Christie pantyhose fetishists beast-like, her body by turns male, female and monster. Borland has continued to experiment with hosiery, covering and moulding the body in her more sculptural series Smudge and Morph. Edith the doll character had a felt face with painted eyes.
I also had a doll with a painted stocking face. With the Bunny series, the work partially became about the different identities or cliches that are used to describe or in some cases define women. Leigh Bowery, by contrast, constructed fantastical costumes that manipulated his body to disturbing, erotic effect. The overlap between the sculptural potential of hosiery and its sexual associations is further explored in works by Louise Bourgeois and Sarah Lucas.
Bourgeois used tights to form mutant bodies: stuffed as sausage-like limbs, stretched over metal frameworks to resemble female torsos, or strange, expressive, semi-human creatures. In her NUDS sculptures, stuffed tights stand in for human limbs of unspecified gender, twisting like fleshy serpents in a strangling, sensual embrace. As the title NUDS suggests, much of the sculptural impact of tights comes from their resemblance to human skin, and the body-like forms they offer. I thought about how this item of clothing had till then marginalised black women and how we are often made to feel invisible in the fashion and beauty markets.
Gbewonyo has been working with hosiery since I also stitch the legs together to make ruffled fabric that is stretched over canvas. I burn into them, embroider by hand on them and trap them in tissue paper. In Gossamer, Gbewonyo will show alongside Senga Nengudi, her hero. For me, her work is about celebrating the female form.
Hosiery […] changes shape just as the female form changes shape through different seasons of our life. This show explores the alchemy of hosiery. Tights in art: why nylons are fetish and fantasy gold. Hettie Judah. Fri 27 Sep Topics Art Women Sculpture features. Reuse this content.Pantyhose fetishists
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Tights in art: why nylons are fetish and fantasy gold